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Very much appreciated! Thanks for taking the time to write and hope it helps

@@Ydoit what are you looking to do? Reprogram the sensor? I think it can only reprogram Autel sensors but it will read and turn off the light in most cars as I understand it.

@@Samlol23_drrich i have a 2010 rav4 and bought 2020 wheels with its oem sensor. Trying to get the car to work with new sensors.

​@@Ydoitso I'm looking at the maxitpms as I'm typing this. There are a lot of rav4s. It looks like the 2010 car has 315mhz sensors so as long as the tires and wheel you bought also have 315mhz you should be good. But there are a lot of 2020 choices. Here's what it says. There are 4 types of possible wheels in 2020. EOOO, CO15, TRW are all 315mhz and will work. If the wheels you bought are XA50 (whatever that means)/those operate at 433mhz and probably won't work in a 2010 no matter what reset tool you have cause they didn't use that frequency in 2010 if that makes sense. Good luck. Otherwise it will work with any of the 315mhz sensors and your 10 rav4

this is The video that shows how to repair the noise that I showed in the first video. My wife had no idea I was working on the washer. She is the least nagging person in this world. I'm extremely lucky.

I guess you are right. I figured that anyone with $500 to waste on a heated toilet seat with a bidet would waste $800 without too much thought as to price.

@@Samlol23_drrich I guess it depends on what differences were coming with that $300. In this case, it truly sounds like nothing more than a slightly better remote control? In any case now that I've looked into them, the S550e is off the table anyway because it only comes in 'elongated' form, not 'round' which is what our toilets are.

​@Sudz28 Well if you are looking to buy one, they no longer make the 550e so search around so you don't wind up with a discontinued model unless that is what you want. The 550 had unlimited hot water (no reservoir) as well as the design was more like an actual toilet seat. It was sleeker and lower which was appealing to me so it wasn't just the remote.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks, it actually looks like Toto only has the following current models in a 'round' offering (vice elongated): C2, C200, C5, S300e, and S350e. Maybe I just need to look at the Bio Bidet BB2000, it seems comparable to those but cheaper.

@@Sudz28 all of the toilets in my current house are elongated so fortunately I didn't have to deal with it. Im sure they are all similar. Someone commented on this video that he has installed a lot of Toto bidet seats and they all move left and right (wiggle slightly) even if the bracket is very tight, and that is true. It's annoying. Maybe you will have better luck with a different brand. Good luck!

Really great idea/ suggestion. Maybe next time around (there WILL unfortunately be a next time) I’ll drill out the rivet and replace it with some sort of bolt and nut since I don’t have a riveter (not even sure that’s a word). Thanks for commenting - very small audience for this type of video……

By the way, thanks to you I’m gonna buy a rivet gun. Not bad to have since I’ve got almost everything else.

You can put the air handler in an attic or basement. I've never seen one in a crawl space but you should ask someone in the field. I'm not. Sorry.

How could I not “heart” your comment? Thanks for letting me know and glad it’s working. I’ve got 3 extra switches in my drawer- never even needed the one. But when I do……

@@Samlol23_drrich was like watching mystery documentary ;). Every step you took is exactly the path i was going to head but did not know where everything was located. I was so glad to see the ending . The switch which i did not know was even there made perfect sense as the igniter was fine when the back burner was igniting. But when I used the front burner knob the igniter was intermittent. I was scratching my head as to how it could be knob specific unless it was the module which I also did not know the location. Great video

@@tcorker11 I was as surprised as anyone to see there were microswitches behind the front panel. I usually kick myself that I didn’t make a video after the fact- this time I decided to let the camera record as I was trying to figure it out. There are certain things the “pros” don’t make videos showing us laypeople how to fix, and this Wolf range was one of them. That’s why as a non expert I decided to put the video out there. I got lucky and it worked. Thanks again for commenting.

Thank you as well for leaving a comment. It's very much appreciated

Well, one of us is wrong about the seat heater fuse, and I don’t think it’s me. Just went over to my car and you can’t even access the seat heaters with the car off, it’s part of the infotainment system. The seat heats go off and only work when the car is running so if your dashcam runs in park mode, it’s not hooked up to the seat heater fuse unless that’s the fuse you used for the running mode. The off mode fuses are things like the horn and brake lights and interior lights that work when the ignition is off. I have 2 Lukas black box dashcams and one 2 channel black view in my other 3 cars. They all use the car battery in park mode and like you I only get a couple of hours and once a car didn’t start because of the battery being over drained. The dedicated battery is great. I get at least 8 hours but not too much more. I really don’t need more, and if I chose a mode that recorded less I could probably get more. It’s worth the money considering car batteries are really expensive now.

I’m no expert but I did use a multimeter to test all the fuses with the car off and for some strange reason the 20 amp seat heater fuse has power! I just ran out to the car and pulled the taps and retested, seat heater has power with the vehicle off and ACC (2nd down from the top right) does not. There’s a video floating around on UA-cam of a guy installing a hardwire kit in a 2022 WRX and he also tests the fuses.

@@cansol7183 okay, honestly I didn’t test them, if you did and it’s working I’d assume that it has power. However, I then can’t explain why when I turn my car off the dashcam says “switching to parking mode” that relies on there being no power to the unit. And if the fuse was powered all the time that wouldn’t happen in this particular dashcam. But the battery backup is worth the cost.

Honestly wiped up everything I could see or feel and whatever left was under the tile so I’m not sure. It’s still holding in my case. Sorry it didn’t seem to dry.

Ok lets See how it goes. I guess it must dry at some point

Mine isn't faint

Do you have the service manual? I've never even read anything that sounds like that

Thanks for commenting!

Thanks for commenting. Yeah, they’ve definitely been great so far. No issues at all.

No, they are two different faults. IO is “igniter open circuit” and IF is “ignition fault”. Here’s their service manual. See page .32 www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/uhs-heater-troubleshooting-guide.pdf. But thanks for commenting and watching.

@@Samlol23_drrich well mine first read SF then IF we changed the ignite n still not heating up

@lindalisten1516 did you have the service manual I linked above? If not download and follow the flow chart. It's great

Thank you for a really nice comment. They do make a dongle that will work over wifi, however both the mini and your primary unit need to be on the same network. It didn’t work because of the layout of my house, but it might work for your home. I’ve gotten a few comments from people that have used the wifi successfully. Thank you again for the nice comment.

I guess you didn’t read through the comments because I answered that years ago. of course it needs to dwell for at least 10 minutes to get into the coil and work on the dirt. The video is edited for time. I should have put a little chyron on the video mentioning that. Heck the stuff I bought isn’t even supposed to be washed off. Appreciate the comment though cause if I washed it off immediately you would be right.

There shouldnt be any surprises. Ive done this twice now. It really helps. Just make sure to be careful when you remove the sand. Id suggest using your hands when you get low so you dont break the " fingers". Apparently, if you unscrew the larger part of the drain on the bottom You can just spray water in there and the sand will come out but I was afraid to force it. Good luck!

@@Samlol23_drrich Our drain at the bottom was nowhere near the size of yours (I literally could not get my pinky finger in there). I did read through all the comments and I saw the one guy’s suggestion to do that … wish we could have. The fingers/laterals in ours were fat and rounds and looked like a cage. They were pretty sturdy. But we did take caution in those areas. We ended up getting down to those and in between them by hand scooping. Hubby and I took turns and it took about 2-3 hours. We then filled a little ways with water, loosening the sand we couldn’t get to so easily. Then we shop vac’d out the last of it - did that process about 3 times. It was obvious that this was way overdue. There was probably sand that was compacted and not even allowing water to penetrate. From beginning to end, the full process took us about 5.5 hours with the only breaks we took being when we alternated scooping. Again, your video was great. We have almost the exact same model. One note I’ll add for your viewers … we both ended up with skin irritation on our scooping arms. We don’t know if it was a reaction to the silica in the sand, or if it was little metal shavings from the opening that we were rubbing against while scooping. It definitely felt like little metal shavings, but can’t be sure. A good thick body lotion applied made it all better. If I could find a full arm neoprene sleeve or something similar, I’ll use that next time. Thanks for the quick reply! Great video!

Its incredible how many openings there are in something that sits outside. Rodents get into mine every year. No matter what i do. They seem to like the sides where the flow switch sits. Thanks for commenting

Glad it helped! Thanks for the nice comment, it made my day. (At least yours HAD instructions!)

@@Samlol23_drrich literally saved my day! 💪🏾

Yes, I believe it is. I’ll edit this post when my wife is around and I can ask her. She ordered them.

It’s a constant battle. I thought I sealed up my heater well, but this spring tons of acorns in there. The spa blower wires were shredded. I had to replace both high voltage wires. Just need to be vigilant.

Thanks for the video. Found mice nest and they chewed through the ignition sensor wire! 😡 I see that this video is 2 years old- did the steel wool help? Have you gotten any more critters since?

@CynthiaFeuer the steel wool didn't even help a little. Just before Memorial Day the water cleared and I went to test the heater- opened it up and at least 100 acorn shells. They were on both sides as well. There's really no way around it. They get into my central AC units as well. I even tried to seal up evert opening for the winter and they still found a way in. They actually got into the electrical compartment of my Spa blower this year. Whoever installed it put stress on the PVC and it cracked away from the housing. Maybe a 1" hole 2 feet from the ground. Well blower wasn't working so I opened it up and 2 wires were chewed through. Good luck keeping them away. You could try moth balls or poison...

Glad.

Not a bad idea. You don’t have a softener?

Yes. Just a regular union. The intention was to slightly loosen the union nut to raise and lower the outlet, but at this point the connection screwed into the filter is looser than the union and I’m too lazy to break out the big pipe wrench so I just let that connection screw in or out. It’s only 1/4 of a turn so it’s fine.

@@Samlol23_drrich thank you

@@AlexK07010 no prob. Good luck if you’re making one. I use it every time I service my pool and it’s so much better than when I used to attach to the skimmers. Directly. In theory you could just use a male adapter into the filter. Once it’s screwed all the way in, come out a couple of inches and then a 90 with a couple of feet to return the water into the pool. Then to raise it up, you would unscrew it from the filter. Of course at that point the only way to disassemble would be to cut the long piece, so I wouldn’t glue that to the 90. And it would be fine.

@@Samlol23_drrich yep in the process of making one. Ive been using my super pump with discharge hose but that looses too much water so just got the filter to recirculate it instead of wasting. I might put a 3 way valve on as well to be able to still use my discharge hose bypassing the filter

It absolutely is. I can’t drive around without a spare. Bad enough some vehicles have run flats- but to not use run-flat tires and not include a spare is an insult.

No problem. Glad it helped- Of course as usual. I got the idea to make the video after it was already installed. It would have been nice if I made a video actually installing it so I apologize

Holy cow I’m not positive so I don’t want to give you the wrong information. I THINK I had to buy a wifi dongle that I wound up returning because of the connectivity and distance from the router. I’ll rewatch the video. If it comes to me I’ll edit this post. Thanks for watching. It’s fantastic though. No different from the main box and system edit. Start watching at 1:20. Yes you would need a dongle and it needs to be on the same network as the main box.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks. Bet you never thought a question like this would come up.

@@blakstar64 you’re right but any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to answer!

Me or the tile repair?? But seriously, yes still perfect

Someone commented that I had so much trouble with the transmission moving in both directions because my brakes needed to be replaced. I’m not sure if he was right, but I rigged my machine so it runs with the lid opened, and I see a big difference. Now as the agitator moves back and forth, the basket with clothes grabs in one direction so the basket slowly moves clockwise only about 3 inches per agitation and doesn’t go back in the other direction. It’s a one way slow spin of the basket, and all of the clothes now contact the agitator better.

They all came in the kit I ordered. It had everything including the sealant- but I think you now need to buy that separately.

You MUST use that. It’s not regular thread sealant. It actually glues the two halves of the metal bearing together. I’ll try to look and find exactly what it is and edit this post. Edit. Here it is. It’s very strong and made specifically for slip fitted cylindrical metal. It also cures without oxygen. next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-680/BP000000153464.html

Glad to help

THANK YOU! but what good is it doing under water on top of the spindle? It’s not in a position to filter anything. I could see if it was over a water pump inlet, or hose area, but it’s just sitting on top of that aluminum piece.

@@Samlol23_drrich the agitator creates water flow. as the water passes through it collects lint then when it spins it flings the lint off and down the drain

@@dougwright5014 thanks very much. You have no idea how helpful your comment and this response are. I use about half of the amount of soap than I used to after seeing that thing with caked on soap residue. Thanks again.